David Hockney: A Timeless Fashion Influence at 87
During his childhood in a Bradford terrace house in the 1940s, David Hockney received advice from his father: never concern yourself with the opinions of others. This wisdom evidently shaped the artist’s life and work, influencing his approach to art, love, and self-expression through fashion.
As Hockney grew older and distanced himself from Yorkshire, his color choices—both artistically and personally—became increasingly vibrant and whimsical. He experimented not just with bold hues but also with different shapes and designs. His fashion statements included oversized tie knots and large eyewear, along with a mix of stripes, polka dots, and plaid patterns that became particularly eye-catching long before his move to California’s colorful landscapes.
Hockney has constantly redefined boundaries not only in art but also in the world of fashion. Traditional garments such as rugby shirts, cardigans, and trench coats received a refreshing twist through his unique combinations and bold use of color.
Notably, designer Christopher Bailey, a fellow Yorkshire native and former head of Burberry, drew inspiration from Hockney’s distinctive style for a 2013 collection. Bailey recalled spotting Hockney on Jermyn Street in a cream linen suit adorned with a green paint smudge, remarking on his effortless combination of colors that left a lingering question about intentionality.
Interestingly, Hockney’s unconventional wardrobe never appears overly calculated. It seems as if his choices are guided by a color palette rather than fashion rules. An iconic photograph from 1970 by Peter Schlesinger captures Hockney with Cecil Beaton, showcasing his signature peroxide hairstyle along with a pastel pink tweed suit featuring a bold windowpane check, mismatched socks, and vibrant accessories. These choices continue to evoke admiration for Hockney’s inherent audacity.
Hilton Als, an American writer who contributed a foreword to a collection of Schlesinger’s photographs, noted that the era of those photographs was characterized by greater openness. Hockney remarked that he felt at home in a world that embraced bold fashion choices in everyday settings.
With a major exhibition of Hockney’s work scheduled to open in Paris next month—featuring 11 rooms at the Fondation Louis Vuitton showcasing both classic pieces and previously unseen works—it’s timely to reflect on how society has shifted towards a broader acceptance of individual style. This is evident in the flamboyant fashions seen on contemporary figures at events like the Grammys and high-profile fashion shows.
For those wanting a touch of Hockney’s flamboyance without fully adopting his look, spring menswear collections offer a plethora of options. Designers like Ami, Auralee, Bianca Saunders, Marni, and Lemaire showcased vivid color blocks on runways, while boutiques offer various brightly colored knitwear and vibrant casual wear.
Chris Stephens, who organized the David Hockney retrospective at Tate Britain in 2017, remarked that the essence of Hockney’s artwork lies in celebrating the joys of life. At 87, Hockney remains a vibrant presence, seemingly dedicated to embracing those pleasures.
His innovative style continues to evolve rather than fade. While Hockney might now favor Savile Row tailored suits, completed with a flat cap and walking cane, these age-appropriate choices do not detract from his playful spirit. Distinguished by his distinctive yellow spectacles and bright banana-yellow Crocs, which even made an appearance at a recent royal event, Hockney’s unmistakable charm continues to impress.
David Hockney exhibition runs from April 9 to August 1 at the Fondation Louis Vuitton.
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